What you see is what you get - this feature is particularly valuable when you want to use different types of lenses. Digital SLR Camera with Interchangeable. years: the digital single lens reflex camera (DSLR) Early photographers used silver halides The camera obscura is an example of a “pinhole camera”. (Digital photography workflow). 1. Canon digital cameras. I. Title. Library of .. either just bought a Canon camera and want more information than the gov/iad//docs/Public%20SP%%20November%pdf.
|Language:||English, Spanish, Hindi|
|ePub File Size:||24.70 MB|
|PDF File Size:||19.78 MB|
|Distribution:||Free* [*Sign up for free]|
Digital SLR Cameras & Photography For Dummies®, 2nd Edition. Published by. Wiley Publishing, Inc. River Street. Hoboken, NJ portal7.info Download the Book:Digital Slr Photography All-In-One For Dummies PDF For Nikon D Digital Field Guide PDF Camera Nikon, Nikon Digital Camera. It's perfect for beginner photographers with their first camera. You'll be taking great Check out our free Ultimate Guide to Photography for Beginners. If you've .
New to Photography? Check out our free Ultimate Guide to Photography for Beginners. Whilst that is fine for some, it may not be long until you crave the creative control that inspired you to download a DSLR in the first place, but where do you begin? If you consider yourself a beginner who is unsure of how to make the most of your camera, this post is designed for you. Note to Mirrorless Camera Owners: The best place to start is with shooting modes. Below, I have given each abbreviation for the given mode.
In this example the focus is on the rope, through a quick recomposition after focus lock, the photographer was able to get a more pleasing photo. Take your first photo by placing your subject dead center. Next, slightly move the camera to position your subject where the lines intersect at the upper left hand corner, then take a photo. For a third capture, move the camera to place your subject in the lower right hand section of the frame where the lines meet.
Now look at each shot on the LCD.
What emotion does each image evoke? As a general rule, dividing your scene into thirds, then placing a subject where the points intersect, will make a more pleasing image. A photo where the subject lands dead center of the frame is seldom interesting.
If your camera has a lens that sits out from the body, use your left hand to support that lens from underneath. Then firmly grip the camera body with the right hand, placing the index finger on the shutter.
For point and shoot cameras, make sure you have a firm grip. Use the wrist strap as an added security against dropping the camera.
Left: A common mistake when holding a camera is to place the hand on top of the lens. This is not as comfortable and also blocks the light from the flash if in use.
Right: The proper way to hold your camera is by cradling the lens with your hand; this enables you to hold the camera comfortably and ensures you are not blocking the flash with your hand. Be sure your gear has this switched to ON.
Get your grounding, brace your elbow at your sides if possible , take a calming breath and click. Small subjects? When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation e.
This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it. Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it. The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed.
However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered.
Practically speaking: when starting out with your camera, either average or centre weighted metering are a good starting point. They will both provide a fairly consistent measure of the exposure required and, if you select one mode and stick with it, you will soon begin to understand when a scene will be under exposed i.
That is where exposure compensation comes in. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene.
A spring lamb leaping in front of a snowy hillside. Left: Straight out of camera, with the snow caught as grey. The bright snowy background caused my camera to underexpose this scene by nearly two stops, which could have been corrected by exposure compensation in camera.
Learn About Focussing Regardless of what shooting mode you are using, or what ISO you define, the chances are there will be a subject of your image that you want to have in focus.
If that focus is not achieved, the image will not be what you wanted.
This is best used when taking photos of stationary subjects such as portraits of people, landscapes, buildings etc. When you half-press the shutter, the focus will be acquired and locked on that point for as long as you hold the button down. If you want to change to focus, you need to release the button, recompose and then re-half-press.
AF-C — autofocus-continuous. This is best used when taking photos of action or moving subjects such as sports and wildlife. When you half-press the shutter, focus will be acquired and locked on to a given subject.
When that subject moves, the focus will adjust with it, refocusing all of the time until the photograph is taken. That switch is an override for if you want to manually focus your lens.
If you want to make use of the autofocus modes discussed above, ensure the lens is set to AF. When you half-press the shutter, you should see one of these squares be highlighted in red. That is the active focus point, and it is that position within the frame that the camera is focussing on.
A viewfinder with 9 focus points is shown below: New DSLRs can come with over 50 focus points and the temptation is to leave it on fully automatic focus point selection, with the thinking that the camera will be able to select the correct focus point. However, only you know what you want to focus on, and there is no better way than ensuring the correct subject is in focus than by using one focus point, and placing that focus point over the subject.
If you select a single focus point, you should be able to change which point is active fairly easily either by using directional buttons one of the dials.
If you select a focus point that is on your desired subject, you will ensure that the camera focuses where you want it to. After a small amount of practice, you will soon get into the habit of being able to change the focus point without taking the camera away form your eye.
This way, you will be able to choose what you are focussing on, ensuring that the subject you want to capture is in focus.
Sony has modified the DSLR formula in favor of single-lens translucent SLT cameras,  which are still technically DSLRs, but feature a fixed mirror that allows most light through to the sensor while reflecting some light to the autofocus sensor. The reduced number of moving parts also makes for faster shooting speeds for its class. This arrangement means that the SLT cameras use an electronic viewfinder as opposed to an optical viewfinder, which some consider a disadvantage, but does have the advantage of a live preview of the shot with current settings, anything displayed on the rear screen is displayed on the viewfinder, and handles bright situations well.
In the reflex design scheme, the image captured on the camera's sensor is also the image that is seen through the view finder. Light travels through a single lens and a mirror is used to reflect a portion of that light through the view finder — hence the name Single Lens Reflex. While there are variations among point-and-shoot cameras, the typical design exposes the sensor constantly to the light projected by the lens, allowing the camera's screen to be used as an electronic viewfinder.
However, LCDs can be difficult to see in very bright sunlight. Compared with some low cost cameras that provide an optical viewfinder that uses a small auxiliary lens, the DSLR design has the advantage of being parallax -free: it never provides an off-axis view. A disadvantage of the DSLR optical viewfinder system is that when it is used, it prevents using the LCD for viewing and composing the picture.
Depending on the viewing position of the reflex mirror down or up , the light from the scene can only reach either the viewfinder or the sensor.
Therefore, many early DSLRs did not provide " live preview " i. Today most DSLRs can alternate between live view and viewing through an optical viewfinder. Optical view image and digitally created image[ edit ] The larger, advanced digital cameras offer a non-optical electronic through-the-lens TTL view, via an eye-level electronic viewfinder EVF in addition to the rear LCD.