Buy a cheap copy of Make Your Own Electric Guitar book by Melvyn Hiscock. For some, it is not enough to buy a guitar—the challenge of designing and. This content was uploaded by our users and we assume good faith they have the permission to share this book. If you own the copyright to this book and it is. Download Make Your Own Electric Guitar pdf ebooks by Hiscock. Make Your Own Electric Guitar - Melvyn Hiscock, Brian For some, it is not enough to.
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Make Your Own Electric Guitar [Melvyn Hiscock, Brian ] on portal7.info * FREE* Get your Kindle here, or download a FREE Kindle Reading App. Click link bellow and free register to download ebook: MAKE YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GUITAR BY MELVYN HISCOCK. DOWNLOAD FROM OUR ONLINE. Make Your Own Electric Guitar book. Read 6 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. For some, it is not enough to buy a guitar—the challen.
If you are making the templates by hand, take your time and do a good job. Your final part will only look as good as these templates. Be sure to watch the video for additional tips on how I made these. Templates: Cut out Template with the X-acto knife. If using a router bushing: see notes on template. Drill inside corners of cavities on all templates to specified dimensions with the drill press, clamping down as needed with the c-clamps. Cut close to outside line of templates, sand to final shape.
Make sure to line up the centerlines to be accurate. Take care to line everything up perfectly. Start with the outer wing attachment holes.
With a large forstner bit you can remove the center material in the pickup and neck cavities. This will make routing the pockets easier as there is less material to remove. See image Finally drill the holes for the volume and tone knobs. With a long strait edge, place it along each side of the neck and draw a line projecting from the neck through the whole body.
Measure the distance between the projected lines and this will be the true centerline to line up the bridge.
I chose to use the Schaller Hannes bridge and it came with a template to follow. Double and triple check your dimensions for this step. If this gets messed up, the guitar may not be able to intonate and may not be able to play in tune. Take your time and look at it from all angles before marking them.
Drill the holes for the strings and mounting locations per the template. Counter sink and route any additional hardware that came with your bridge.
With your Control Cavity -Template 5 in place, draw the cavity outline to the backside of the guitar. With a forstner bit, bore out the cavity close to but not all the way to the line.
Use your template for the first go and take the sides of the cavity down about half way or as deep as your router will go.
Next remove the template and use the surface you just routed as the template for the bearing to ride on to mill out the rest of the cavity.
With your Template 3 Rear Cover Recess , we are going to cut the front edge of the recess for the plastic control cavity cover. Re-Align and double stick tape the Wing offset template 4 to the back of the guitar.
Also, if you can, clear out some of the material at the neck end of the guitar to have some free space available for the next step. Double stick the guitar directly to the bridge. Place a clamp on the side that you are cutting on the bridge but outside the rails.
This will act as a stop to keep the router from eating the center section of the guitar. Make sure the clamp is tight! Mill down both sides and use a rail clamped down to the top of the bridge rails to act as a stop so you can mill down the end section. While you still have the bridge set up, reset depth of the router to cut the remainder of the rear cover recess. Use the rail clamped to the bridge rails to prevent you from going to far into the center section of the guitar.
See Video Use your C-clamps as needed. This will be the passage for the pickup wiring. Also drill a hole from the bridge pickup to the control cavity. Skip this step if your truss rod is adjusted from the neck. Cut to a depth just above the hole you drilled for the wire passage. Use a rail and some blocks to limit the router and cut freehand. Double check the dimensions of the jack that you purchased as they are all a little different. Use your C-clamps as needed.
Spray mount the second copy of Template 1 directly on the body blank and carefully align to the centerline of the guitar. With a band saw, cut just the rear profile edge. This will give us a little more room to drill the hole for the long panel jack. Do not cut whole body blank out yet. Using the long panel jack. On the body blank, find the center of the rear profile edge that you just cut, mark center and drill a countersink and a through hole for your jack.
Overview: On my old guitar they have an angle below the neck to thin up the body a bit around the neck so I chose to add this. You can skip this part if you want as it makes drilling the holes a little bit harder but I think it looks better this way.
In side view, mark a 5 degree angle from the front edge of the wing offset out through the front of the guitar. Use a belt sander to sand this angle. There are alternatives to much of this but the people with Internet Opinions begin whinging when one is mentioned and that whinging seeps in to become the opinion of many who hear it. Things will change and materials will change and people will have to get used to it.
GH: I suppose it depends what effects. That may well be the case too.
Whatever your concerns and opinions when buying a guitar, you should buy what you think is right for you. I hand-build guitars but am absolutely not a guitar snob. If one of these guitars or basses does the trick for you, brilliant. Go for it and ignore any naysayers. Get the guitar that makes you happy—that sounds and plays like you want. Play loads of guitars. GH: Guitars are pretty much democratised these days. Quality control from the majority of manufacturers these days is good enough that you can buy a guitar online without too much worry.
LL: How about generic guitars? Like I said about the democratisation thing, almost anybody can buy a guitar these days that will be perfectly serviceable.
It will almost certainly benefit from some setup work but so will guitars costing ten or twenty times as much and pickups are generally a weak link in budget instruments. Oh, and an output jack which is always rubbish in budget guitars.
LL: Is there any way to test if an output jack is good? Wiggle the plug a little and it it crackles or sounds nasty, you might want to look into it. LL: How can a refret go wrong?
LL: Can a guitar withstand a number of neck resets? GH: It depends but, in most cases, a guitar can potentially be reset more than once, yes. Frets with different sized tangs can be inserted in places along the neck. LL: Did your early guitars have the Haze logo on them?
Then go and do it. There is anything new. Go slow, be careful sharp tools and spinning blades are dangerous , and think carefully before you start hacking at that bit of wood. Go for it. LL: Do you collect guitars yourself? GH: Not really. Oh, and obviously a few of my own guitars. GH: I had a number of people, of differing levels of experience, read the book for readability, clarity and mistake-catching.
Layout and diagrams took a long time.
LL: Did you use any of your current software [to put the book together]? GH: I used iBooks Author to layout the ebook.
LL: Thanks for the pictures! What camera did you use? GH: Not sure. One of those. LL: Still remember what year those sketches were done? GH: Last year for those one, I think. I really like A Camp right now. LL: Do you go out of your way to discover new music? It sort of happens by accident.