Marcella Hazan. DOC | *audiobook | ebooks | Download PDF | ePub. The most important, consulted, and enjoyed Italian cookbook of all time, from the woman. The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking DOWNLOAD PDF/ePUB [Marcella Hazan] - ARTBYDJBOY-BOOK. The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking pdf. Marcella Hazan Ebook Download, Free Essentials Of Classic Italian Cooking Marcella. Hazan Download Pdf, Free Pdf Essentials Of Classic.
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The Classic Italian Cookbook [Marcella Hazan] on portal7.info *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Describes the techniques for making pasta and provides. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking [Marcella Hazan] on portal7.info *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. A timeless Mother's Day gift: The most important. Read Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking PDF - by Marcella Hazan Alfred A. Knopf | The most important, consulted, and enjoyed Italian.
Shelves: review-or-reviewed , food-and-cooking , c-italy Time to tackle one of those eternal verities: to choose good, or to choose evil; is it nature, or nurture; hang to the left, or to the right? Can a cookbook be treated as read based on completion of a statistically significant sample of the recipes or do I have to go over every page of the damn thing? Having majored in chemistry, I long fancied myself as a talented cook. My family did not agree, with my wife often bitterly complaining about the state of the laboratory after the experiment was com Time to tackle one of those eternal verities: to choose good, or to choose evil; is it nature, or nurture; hang to the left, or to the right? My family did not agree, with my wife often bitterly complaining about the state of the laboratory after the experiment was complete. So my white coat was hung up for a decade or more. But, after realizing that the food industry cares as much about my health as the finance industry cares about my savings, I decided to start cooking again.
Once you have had spinach or mushrooms or a tomato sauce cooked in marvelous olive oil, you will not willingly have them any other way. If taste is the overriding consideration, use the olive oil with the nest avor as freely for cooking as for salads.
They should not be confused with the other familiar variety of Greek olive, the purple Kalamata, elongated, tapering at the ends, whose avor is ill suited to Italian dishes. Cooking olives a long time accentuates their bitterness. OREGANO Origano Botanically speaking, oregano is closely related to marjoram, but its brasher scent is more closely associated with the cooking of the South, with pizza and with pizza-style sauces. It is excellent in some salads, with eggplant, with beans, and extraordinary in salmoriglio, the Sicilian sauce for grilled sword sh.
Unlike marjoram, oregano dries perfectly. In its most common form, known as pancetta arrotolata, it is bundled jelly-roll fashion into a salami-like shape. To make pancetta arrotolata, the rind is rst stripped away, then To make pancetta arrotolata, the rind is rst stripped away, then the meat is dressed with salt, ground black pepper, and a choice of other spices, which, depending on the packer, may include nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, or crushed juniper berries.
It is moister than bacon because it is not smoked. When it has been cured for two weeks, it is tightly rolled up and tied, then wrapped in organic or, more commonly, arti cial casing. At this point, it can be eaten as is, as one would eat prosciutto. It is more tender and considerably less salty than prosciutto.
Its more important use, however, is in cooking, where its savory-sweet, unsmoked avor has no wholly satisfactory substitute. Some Italians use a similarly cured, at version of pancetta still attached to its rind, known as pancetta stesa.
What is parmigiano-reggiano? The name is stringently protected What is parmigiano-reggiano? The name is stringently protected by law. The only cheese that may bear it is produced—by a process unchanged in seven centuries—from the partly skimmed milk of cows raised in a precisely circumscribed territory mainly within the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia in the region of EmiliaRomagna.
The totally natural process—nothing is added to the milk, but rennet; the long aging of eighteen months; the ora and the microorganisms that are speci c to the pastureland of the production zone—all are contributors to the taste of parmigianoreggiano and to the way it performs in cooking, qualities no other cheese can claim in the same measure.
How to download it, how to store it If you have the choice, do not download a precut wedge of parmigiano-reggiano, but ask that it be cut from the wheel. The more it is cut up, the more it loses moisture, until it begins to taste sharp and coarse. For the same reason, never download any Parmesan in grated form and, at home, grate it only when you are ready to use it. Take a careful look at the cheese you are about to download. It should be a dewy, pale amber color, uniform throughout, without any dry white patches.
In particular, look at the color next to the rind: If it has begun to turn white, the cheese has been stored badly and is drying out. If there is a broad chalk white rim next to the rind, the cheese is no longer in optimum condition. If there are no visible defects, ask to taste it. It should dissolve creamily in the mouth, its flavor nutty and mildly salty, but never harsh, sharp, or pungent.
When you have found an example of parmigiano-reggiano that meets all requirements, you might be well advised to download a substantial amount.
Each piece must be attached to a part of the rind. First wrap it tightly in wax paper, then wrap it in heavy-duty aluminum foil.
Make sure no corners of cheese poke through the foil. Store on the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. If you are keeping the cheese a long while, check it from time to If you are keeping the cheese a long while, check it from time to time. If you nd that the color has begun to lose its amber hue and is becoming chalkier, moisten a piece of cheesecloth with water, wring it until it is just damp, then fold it around the cheese.
Wrap the cheese in foil and refrigerate for a day or two. Unwrap the Parmesan, discard the cheesecloth, rewrap the cheese in wax paper and aluminum foil, and return it to the refrigerator. It is hardly ever grated on pasta or risotto that contain seafood, because seafood in Italy is nearly always cooked in olive oil. Like all rules, this one is meant to supply guidance rather than impose dogma.
It should be applied with discrimination, taking account of exceptions, a notable one being pesto, which requires the use of both Parmesan and olive oil.
It is found nearly everywhere, and there are of Italian cooking. On many occasions, it is added again, raw, sprinkled over a nished dish that, without the fresh parsley fragrance hovering over it, might seem incomplete. Curly parsley is not a satisfactory substitute, although it is better than no parsley at all. If you have di culty nding Italian parsley, when you do come across it you might try downloading a substantial quantity and freezing some of it.
When the fall-out over Italy from Chernobyl made it impossible for a time to use any leaf vegetable or herb, I cooked with frozen parsley. It was not equivalent to the fresh, but it was acceptable.
Indeed, we were thankful for it. Note Do not get coriander—also known as cilantro—and Italian parsley mixed up. The aroma of coriander, which harmonizes so agreeably with Oriental and Mexican cooking, is jarring to the palate when forced into an Italian context. There is not the slightest justi cation for preferring homemade pasta to the factory-made. Those who do deprive themselves of some of the most avorful dishes in the Italian repertory.
One pasta is not better than the other, they are simply di erent; di erent in the way they are made, in their texture and consistency, in the shapes to which they lend themselves, in the sauces with which they are most compatible. They are seldom interchangeable, but in terms of absolute quality, they are fully equal. Factory-made macaroni pasta That most familiar of all pasta shapes, spaghetti, is in this category, along with fusilli, penne, conchiglie, rigatoni, and a few dozen others.
The dough for factory pasta is composed of semolina—the golden yellow our of hard wheat—and water. The shapes the dough is made into are obtained by extruding the dough through perforated dies.
Once shaped, the pasta must be fully dried before it can be packaged. Aside from the quality of both the our and the water, which is critically important to that of the nished product, the general factor that sets o exceptionally ne factory-made pasta from more common varieties is the speed at which it is produced. Great factory pasta is made slowly: The dough is kneaded at length; once kneaded, it is extruded through slow bronze dies rather than slippery, fast Te oncoated ones.
It is then dried gradually at an unforced pace. Such pasta is necessarily limited to small quantities; it is made only by a few artisan pasta makers in Italy, and it costs more than the industrial product of major brands. Good-quality factory pasta should have a faintly rough surface, and an exceptionally compact body that maintains its rmness in cooking while swelling considerably in size.
But, as some of the recipes bear out, there are also several butter-based sauces that marry well with factory pasta. Homemade pasta Italians have fascinating ways of manipulating pasta dough at home: In Apulia, pinching it with the thumb to make orecchiette; on the Riviera, rolling it in the palm of the hand to make trofie; in Sicily, twisting it around a knitting needle to make fusilli.
And there are many others. The basic dough for homemade pasta in the Bolognese style consists of eggs and soft-wheat our. The only other ingredient used is spinach or Swiss chard, required for making green pasta.
No salt, no olive oil, no water are added. Salt does nothing for the dough, since it will be present in the sauce; olive oil imparts slickness, flawing its texture; water makes it gummy. In the home kitchens of Emilia-Romagna, the dough is rolled out into a transparently thin circular sheet by hand, using a long, narrow hardwood pin. Girls used to begin to try their hand at it at the age of six or seven.
Instructions for both the rolling pin and the machine method appear later on in these pages. Good homemade pasta is not as chewy as good factory pasta. It has a delicate consistency, and feels light and buoyant in the mouth. It has the capacity of absorbing sauces deeply, particularly the ones based on butter and those containing cream. White pepper is the same berry, but it is stripped of its skin, where much of the aroma and liveliness that makes pepper desirable resides.
Although white pepper is actually feebler, it seems to taste sharper because it lacks the full, round aroma of the black. Once ground, that aroma fades rapidly, so it is imperative to grind pepper only when you need to use it, as the recipes in this book direct throughout.
The variety of black pepper I have used is Tellicherry, whose warm, sweetly spiced flavor I find the most appealing. Dehydration concentrates the musky, earthy fragrance of porcini to a degree the fresh mushroom can never equal. In risotto, in lasagne, in sauces for pasta, in stu ngs for some vegetables, for birds, or for squid, the intensity of the aroma of dried porcini can be thrilling. How to download Dried porcini are usually marketed in small transparent packets, generally weighing slightly less than one ounce, one of which is su cient for a risotto or a pasta sauce for four to six persons.
They keep inde nitely, particularly if kept in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator, so it pays to have a supply at hand that one can turn to on the inspiration of the moment. The dried porcini with the most avor are the ones whose color is predominantly creamy. Choose the packet containing the largest, palest pieces and—unless you have no alternative—stay away from brown-black, dark mushrooms that appear to be all crumbs or little pieces.
Dried morels, chanterelles, or shiitake, while they may be very good on their own terms, do not remotely recall the flavor of porcini, and are not a satisfactory substitute. Note If you are traveling in Italy, particularly in the fall or spring, there is no more advantageous food download you can make than a bag of high-quality dried porcini. It is legal to bring them into the country and, if you refrigerate them in a tightly closed container, you can keep them for as long as you like.
Soak the mushrooms in the water for at least 30 minutes. Rinse the reconstituted mushrooms in several changes of fresh water. Scrape clean any places where soil may still be embedded. Pat dry with paper towels.
Chop them or leave them whole as the recipe may direct. Filter it through a strainer lined with paper toweling, collecting it in a bowl or beaked pouring cup. Set aside to use as the recipe will subsequently instruct. A true prosciutto is never smoked. Depending on the size of the ham and other factors, the curing process may take from a few weeks to a year or more.
Slow, unforced, wholly natural air-curing produces the delicate, complex aromas and sweet avor that distinguish the nest prosciuttos. Parma ham, by which all others are judged, is aged a minimum of ten months, and particularly large examples may be aged one and a half years.
Slicing prosciutto Skillfully cured prosciutto balances savoriness with sweetness, rmness with moistness. To maintain that balance, each slice ought to maintain the same proportions of fat and lean meat that characterized the ham when it left the curing house. The regrettable practice of stripping away the fat from prosciutto subverts a carefully achieved balance of avors and textures and subverts a carefully achieved balance of avors and textures and elevates the salty over the sweet, the dry over the moist.
Sliced prosciutto ought to be consumed as soon as possible because, once cut, it quickly loses much of its alluring fragrance. If it must be kept for a length of time, each slice or each single layer of slices must be covered with wax paper or plastic wrap and the whole then tightly wrapped in aluminum foil. Plan on using it within the following twenty-four hours, if possible, and remove from the refrigerator at least a full hour before serving. Cooking with prosciutto Prosciutto contributes huskier avor to pasta sauces, vegetables, and meat dishes than any other ham.
It also contributes salt, and one must be very judicious with what salt one adds when cooking with prosciutto. Sometimes none is needed. What is true when serving sliced prosciutto is even more pertinent when cooking with it: Do not discard any of the sweet, moist fat. The familiar tight, round, colorful head vaguely resembling a cabbage, known in Italy as radicchio rosso di Verona, or rosa di Chioggia, is one of several varieties of red radicchio from the Veneto region.
Another variety similar in shape, but with looser leaves of a mottled, marbleized pink hue is called radicchio di Castelfranco. Both the above are usually consumed raw, in salads.
Those whose palate nds the bitterness of chicory that cooking brings out agreeably bracing, may also use them in soups, sauces, or as braised agreeably bracing, may also use them in soups, sauces, or as braised vegetables. A third radicchio is quite di erent in shape, somewhat resembling a Romaine lettuce, with loosely clustered, long, tapering, mottled red leaves. It is known as radicchio di Treviso or variegato di Treviso. It matures later than the previous two, usually in November; it is far less bitter than they are when cooked, hence, although it is frequently served as salad, it is also used in risotto, or in pasta sauces, or it is served on its own, either grilled or baked, basted liberally with olive oil.
Its long leaves are loosely spread and exceptionally narrow, more like slender stalks than leaves, with sharply pointed tips curled inwards.
The stalk-like ribs are a dazzling white, their leafy fringes deep purple, and they spring away from the root like tongues of re. It is an exceedingly beautiful vegetable. Tardivo di Treviso is the sweetest radicchio of all, a highly prized—and steeply priced—delicacy used either to make a luxuriously delicious salad or, best of all, cooked like radicchio di Treviso as described above.
Note If you cannot nd either of the Treviso varieties, in any recipe that calls for cooking them you can satisfactorily substitute Belgian endive.
The striking red hues of Venetian radicchios are achieved by blanching in the eld. If left to grow naturally, radicchio would be green with rust-brown spots and it would be very bitter. Midway through its development, however, it is covered with loose soil, or straw, or dried leaves, or even sheets of black plastic.
As it continues to grow in the absence of light, the lighter portions of the leaves become white and the darker, red. downloading radicchio Radicchio is sweetest late in the year, most bitter in the summer.
The stunted, small heads one sometimes sees in the market are of warm weather radicchio, and likely to be very astringent. Note Although the whole, bright red leaf looks very attractive in a salad, radicchio can be made to taste sweeter by splitting the head in half, then shredding it ne on the diagonal.
This is a secret learned from the radicchio growers of Chioggia. Do not discard the tender, upper part of the root just below the base of the leaves, because it is very tasty.
Radicchietto M a n y varieties of small, green radicchio, some wild, some cultivated, are served in salads in Italy. RICE Riso Choosing the correct rice variety is the rst step in making one of the greatest dishes of the Northern Italian cuisine, risotto.
What a grain of good risotto rice must be able to do are two essentially divergent things. It must partly dissolve to achieve the clinging, creamy texture that characterizes risotto but, at the same time, it must deliver firmness to the bite. Of the several varieties of rice for risotto that Italy produces, three are exceptional: Arborio, Vialone Nano, Carnaroli.
Arborio and Vialone Nano offer qualities at opposite ends of the scale. Arborio It is a large, plump grain that is rich in amylopectin, the starch that dissolves in cooking, thus producing a stickier risotto. It is the rice of preference for the more compact styles of risotto that are popular in Lombardy, Piedmont, and Emilia-Romagna, such as risotto with sa ron, or with Parmesan and white tru es, or with meat sauce.
Vialone Nano A stubby, small grain with more of another kind of starch, amylose, that does not soften easily in cooking, although Vialone Nano has enough amylopectin to qualify it as a suitable variety for risotto. Carnaroli It is a new variety, developed in by a Milanese rice grower who crossed Vialone with a Japanese strain. There is far less of it produced than either Arborio or Vialone Nano, and it is more expensive, but it is unquestionably the most excellent of the three.
Its kernel is sheathed in enough soft starch to dissolve deliciously in cooking, but it also contains more of the tough starch than any other risotto variety so that it cooks to an exceptionally satisfying firm consistency. The resulting product is milk white, very soft, granular, and mild tasting. It is undeniably a richer product than the traditional one, but ricotta was not really intended to be rich. It was born as a poor byproduct of cheesemaking, lean of texture, slightly tart in avor, and it is those qualities that make it—and the dishes it is used for— uniquely appealing.
Ricotta salata This is ricotta to which salt has been added as a preservative. Since it is kept longer, it is not as moist as fresh ricotta.
It can also be air cured or dried in an oven to render it a sharp-tasting grating cheese, somewhat reminiscent of the avor of romano. downloading ricotta One should look for ricotta in the same place one looks for other good cheese, in a cheese shop, in a food store with a specialized cheese department, or in a good Italian grocery.
In any place, that is, that sells it loose, cutting it from a piece that looks as though it had been unmolded from a basket. Usually, it is not only fresher than the supermarket variety packed in plastic tumblers, but it is less watery, an important consideration when baking with ricotta. When the ricotta has shed its excess liquid, pour the liquid out of the pan, wrap the ricotta in cheesecloth, and hang it over a bowl or deep dish.
The ricotta is ready to work with when it has stopped dripping. Today there are dozens of pecorino cheese of which romano is but one example. Romano, on the other hand, is so sharp and pungent that only a singular palate is likely to nd it agreeable as a table cheese. Its place is in the grater, and its use is with a limited group of pasta sauces that bene t from its piquancy.
It is indispensable in amatriciana sauce, a little of it ought to be combined with Parmesan in pesto, and it is often the cheese to use in sauces for macaroni and other factory-made pasta that are made with such vegetables as broccoli, rapini, cauliflower, and olive oil. Fiore, while it delivers all the tanginess one looks for in romano, has none of its harshness. Its aroma, which can quicken the most torpid appetites, is usually associated with roasts.
In Italian cooking, a sprig of rosemary is indispensable to the fully realized avor of a roast chicken or rabbit. It is exceptionally good with pan-roasted potatoes, in some emphatically fragrant pasta sauces, in frittate, and in various breads, particularly flat breads like focaccia. Using rosemary If at all possible, cook only with fresh rosemary. Grow your own, if you have a garden or terrace. It does particularly well with a sun-warmed wall at its back, putting out beautiful violet blue owers twice a year.
Some varieties have pink or white blooms. For the kitchen, snip o the tips of the younger, more fragrant branches.
If you have absolutely no access to fresh rosemary, use the dried whole leaves, a tolerable, if not entirely satisfactory, alternative. Powdered rosemary, however, is to be shunned. Using sage If available, sage should be used fresh, as it always is in Italy. Otherwise, the same principle holds that applies to rosemary: Dried whole leaves are acceptable, powdered sage is not. Sage grows well if not subjected to extremes of cold or humidity and a mature plant will produce enough leaves from spring to fall to ll most kitchen requirements.
It puts out beautiful purple blooms, but it is advisable to trim the ower-bearing tips of the branches to promote denser foliage. Note When using either dried rosemary or dried sage leaves, chop the rst or crumble the second to release avor and use about half the quantity you would if they were fresh. Lacking it, all they have to contribute to cooking is acid. When truly ripe and fresh, they endow the dishes of many cuisines with dense, fruit-sweet, mouth- lling avor. The avor of fresh tomatoes is livelier, less cloying than that of the canned, but fully ripened fresh tomatoes for cooking are still not a common feature of North American markets, except for the six or eight weeks during the summer when they are brought in from nearby farms.
What to look for in fresh tomatoes If there is a choice, the most desirable tomato for cooking is the narrow, elongated plum variety. It has fewer seeds than any other, more rm esh and less watery juice. Because it has less liquid to boil down, it cooks faster, yielding that fresh, clear avor that is characteristic of so many Italian sauces. If there are no plum tomatoes, measure the ones you have to choose from by the same standards.
What matters is that they be densely eshed and ripe and that, in the pot, they produce tomato sauce, not tomato juice. In Italy, there are other varieties of tomatoes, besides the plum, that are used for sauce. In Rome there is a marvelous, deeply wrinkled, small, round variety, locally called casalini. Marcella had offered to cook pasta for me. Crazy boy. I stayed in a hotel that felt like the sort of place in which the Mob would take their summer holidays, just down from where she lived.
I must admit I was a little surprised by her home, a high-rise gated community, but this seemed to be the favoured school of architecture along this coastline. We found ourselves outside her front door, someone had rung the bell, and I suddenly felt like turning on my heels and running. It was all too much. I was about to meet Marcella. There I was, eating canapes and drinking with her husband, Victor, and herself.
We started with a fresh pasta that had wild mushrooms and roughly chopped spinach running through it. This was pasta you could have eaten for ever, except we were halted by the arrival of two shapely braised veal shins. A little homage from your hero is a giddy mouthful indeed.
When your hero knocks, or says come to lunch, Florida is not far away. So my white coat was hung up for a decade or more. But, after realizing that the food industry cares as much about my health as the finance industry cares about my savings, I decided to start cooking again.
This time I changed my approach, sticking to two rules: keep it simple — no glossy pictures or overly fussy recipes that always go wrong; choose a country and specialize in its cuisine. This second rule has enhanced the whole experience. I get to appreciate food in a cultural context, understand regional variation and be better able to master techniques and approaches common to multiple dishes.
I choose two cuisines, Turkish and Italian. And it worked! In fact this approach worked so well I am now expected to cook every Saturday, which is not quite the outcome I wanted but at least I get to eat what I like.